A city like Berlin is an ill-mannered, impertinent, intelligent scoundrel, constantly affirming the things that suit him and tossing aside everything he tires of. Here in the big city you can definitely feel the waves of intellect washing over the life of Berlin society like a sort of bath. An artist here has no choice but to pay attention. Elsewhere he is permitted to stop up his ears and sink into willful ignorance. Here this is not allowed. Rather, he must constantly pull himself together as a human being, and this compulsion encircling him redounds to his advantage. But there are yet other things as well.— from "Berlin and the Artist" in Berlin Stories, by Robert Walser.
Berlin never rests, and this is glorious. Each dawning day brings with it a new, agreeably disagreeable attack on complacency, and this does the general sense of indolence good. An artist possesses, much like a child, an inborn propensity for beautiful, noble sluggardizing. Well, this slug-a-beddishness, this kingdom, is constantly being buffeted by fresh storm-winds of inspiration. The refined, silent creature is suddenly blustered full of something coarse, loud, and unrefined. There is an incessant blurring together of various things, and this is good, this is Berlin, and Berlin is outstanding.
I've been wanting to visit Berlin for more than twenty-five years now, since I first saw Wings of Desire. I must go someday.
I love this passage. Reminds me a little of Patrick Hamilton's description of London in The Slaves of Solitude.
(Perhaps I shall begin collecting literary city descriptions, to compile a sort of travelogue...)
More excerpts from this and other Walser stories at The New York Review of Books.